Day 12 - May 31 Aw, Hell Yes

Calf Creek Falls

Today I moved a little farther off the grid. It’s a little uncomfortable, but I think it’s important.  All of the places I’ve camped or hiked have either had cell service or been close to it. As I drove north from Bryce Canyon this morning, I realized that was all about to change.

I needed to get an early start to get a site at the campground I wanted to stay in – Calf Creek Campground. I knew it was popular and small, so I needed to get to the campground early, grabbing a site just as people were leaving. When I arrived at the campground, there were about four sites available, and I quickly decided on the one I wanted.

Hell's Back Bone

I wasn’t really in the mood to hike yet, so I drove a little farther north and checked out the little town of Boulder. Town is a bit of an exaggeration – from what I could see there were a few stores and a few restaurants and that’s about it. They did have a nice spot with free wi-fi and cell reception, so I took advantage of that. 

On the way back, I decided to take the loop connecting Boulder to Escalante called Hell’s Back Bone instead of the main highway. It is a long loop of washboard gravel, and it winds up and up, culminating on a one-lane bridge spanning a deep, rugged canyon. The views were spectacular on the drive and at the bridge, and I pulled over more than once to snap some pictures.

Posey Lake

Along the way, the road passes a side road to Posey Lake Campground, so I drove up to check it out. It was a lovely little lake, and there was no one in the picnic area when I arrived. I parked and walked down to the dock, sitting for a while and watching the ducks play on the water. After a few minutes, I noticed a fly fisherman just across from me, waving his rod and making that line dance above the water as only fly fisherman can do. There’s not a lot sexier to watch than a good fly fisherman. Maybe I’m influenced by the book and movie A River Runs Through It, and I know all fly fisherman aren’t Brad Pitt, but watching someone make that line and fly dance through the air is magic.

Resident of Posey Lake

Before long, another man and his son arrived on my side of the lake with big tackle boxes, a few poles, and some camp chairs. Not as sexy. But it was still a part of the magic of the afternoon. After a while I rose to leave and just as I was getting in my car, a big, loud pickup truck and a girl on a four-wheeler showed up. I was glad of the timing.

Calf Creek Falls Trail

By the time I took care of some business on the internet in Escalante and drove back to the campsite, it was almost 5:00. The hike to the falls is a six-mile hike, and I figured I could make it there and back before dark. It was a simple hike without a lot of elevation change. The sand was deep in places, making going sluggish at times, but I was able to move quickly for most of the hike, and I reached the falls with plenty of daylight.

The hike itself was lovely. Much of it was rocky, desert-like terrain, but it also passed through thick foliage of trees and long grasses. I don’t think I’ve ever hiked in such diverse conditions on such a short hike. And the falls were stunning – 128 feet tall, cascading down, hitting a green, moss-covered rock, before falling into a quiet pool. I could feel the waterfall before I could see it as the air became damp and the temperature dropped probably 10 degrees 100 yards before arriving. I lingered for a while, taking it all in, before turning back for camp.

I’ve spent the evening with my next door neighbor, Jen. She’s a young woman from Montana traveling alone for the summer with her little pug dog. She pulled her chair over and talked to me while I built my fire and fixed dinner. We had a nice chat, and I admire her for taking off on her own for the summer. She’s “successfully unemployed” at the moment, as she put it, and she’s taking full advantage of that state. It was nice to have the company, and I think she felt the same way.

 

So tomorrow I’ll hike somewhere up here in the canyonlands of the Grand Staircase, maybe checking out a slot canyon and maybe just finding some other hikes. I’ll decide that tomorrow, letting myself be guided by whatever seems like the thing to do at the moment.