A Few Days Off and a Tough Climb

            June 12 – I took today to bum around Flagstaff. What a great little city. I can’t believe how overlooked it has been in my possible destinations. I talked to a guy who works at one of the outdoor stores here, Babbitts, and he said it is a “stopover” town – most people who visit it are only here for one night. I can’t understand that. It has all one could want: mountains for hiking (up to 12,600 ft. elevation); trails and trails and trails for hiking; places to climb, including being less than an hour from Sedona, which is known for its climbing; an historic downtown with everything from trendy to down-home restaurants; and, maybe most importantly, an unbelievably temperate climate.

While Phoenix to the south and Moab to the north are both in the hundreds, the higher elevation of Flagstaff (6800 ft. give or take) keeps the temperatures in the 80s and cools it off nicely in the 40s or 50s at night. I’ve had nights I’ve slept in my sweatpants and hoodie, and nights I was comfortable in a t-shirt and shorts – but the mornings are always bright and warm quickly. There’s been no rain since I’ve been here, although I know they could use some, and barely a cloud in the sky. That’s why I decided to stay for a week or so before heading farther west for the hike.

Berry berry crepe

So today I really did very little. I restocked a few things and walked a little downtown. I ate at a recommended Mexican restaurant that was okay – nothing like the places in Kanab, Utah – and found a little creperie where I had a “Berry Berry” crepe that was yummy. I found a lovely used book store called Starrlight where I bought an Edward Abbey book I’d not read, Down the River, and found another, Slickrock, that he co-authored. This edition of Slickrock was a hardback, first edition signed by Abbey, and it was priced at $375. Ah, to have more expendable income than I do . . . Unfortunately, the guy working said someone had come in just before me and bought a copy that wasn’t signed. C’est la vie, I suppose.

View at dusk from my campsite

My home these two weeks

My hummingbird friend

Returning to my campsite early, I enjoyed the afternoon. Sitting in my chair, reading the Abbey book, a hummingbird visited me a number of times, announcing his arrival with the unmistakable hum of his wings. My lantern must look like a feeder he’s used, because he kept returning to it. I say he, because what I know of birds is that the male is more colorful, and he had a bright, iridescent pink breast. I managed to snap a photo of him in the tree above when he lighted for a moment, but I wasn’t quick enough to get him next to me. My friend Rhonda reminded me that sometimes it’s better to just enjoy the experience than try to record it. Thanks, Rhonda. You are so correct.

The Honey Moon - Full moon on Friday the 13th

I watched the setting sun change the colors of the mountains just to the north of my campsite, and waited for the Honey Moon to rise. There’s just not a whole lot better than sitting outside on a beautiful, clear evening.

June 13 – Today I worked a little more on developing my trail legs and my altitude tolerance. I chose a hike called Eldon’s Lookout and Fat Man’s Loop. The entire length was only about six miles, but the first 2 ½ of it rose 2500 feet. It was probably the steepest climb I’ve ever done, with the exception of when Helen Cathey and I climbed out of that sandy wash in Capitol Reef. That was a mile long and climbed about 1000 feet, so the grade was similar but the length was longer.

Part way up

Much of the trail was along an edge

This is the trail

Glad to see this sign - finally at the top

Much of the trail consisted of rocks – some in the form of crude steps and some just rocks I had to scramble up. I decided I wouldn’t worry about how long it took me, so I rested a lot, taking pictures and catching my breath. There was a lot of shade on the trail, so it wasn’t as brutal as climbing out of the Grand Canyon, and I had plenty of water and only a day pack, so it wasn’t as brutal as Capitol Reef. I only averaged a mile an hour on the climb, but of course that included all the stops for pictures.

At the top the wind was blowing about 40 miles an hour, with nothing to block it. I walked around the fire tower part way, and then turned and walked around it from the other direction, letting it shield me from the worst of the wind. Finding a place up against the building to eat my lunch, I looked out over the various mountains of the San Francisco Peaks. Mt. Eldon, on whose summit I sat, is one of the shorter peaks – in the coming week, hopefully, I’ll summit Mt. Humphry, the highest point in Arizona at 12,600 ft.

From the top

The trip down was much quicker as I didn’t need to pause as often to catch my breath and rest my legs. I did have to check my speed at times, as the downward inertia occasionally pushed me faster than I should go. I was picking my way down, using my trekking poles as brakes, when I moved over to let this 30-something man with a three-year-old child on his shoulders pass me. He was probably 6’4” or so and had long legs that went from rock to rock with no hesitation. If ever I begin to feel smug about my abilities, I only have to wait a few minutes and someone comes along who reminds me how inexperienced and unskilled I am. 

I felt so good when I reached the base of the Mt. Eldon trail that I took the longer route back to the trailhead, looping up and around in the Fat Man’s Loop trail. I was really glad I did, as the trail led through some big, fallen boulders and was an easy, pleasant hike.

From the top - the fire in the distance was put out quickly

I decided to shower at the Aquaplex, and I indulged in a dip in the pool and a short soak in the whirlpool. It was lovely, and the hot water felt good on these old bones and muscles.

Finishing off the day, I spent some time at McDonalds on their internet. I searched TripAdvisor for a recommended restaurant, and I found a barbeque place called Satchmo’s that was highly rated. I’ve been craving good barbeque, and there is nowhere in Sioux City that has ribs like I know exist (sorry Famous Daves and House of Q). I even had ribs at the Jazz Fest, hoping for something wonderful, and they were only so-so (and overly priced). Here I finally found what I was looking for.

 

Satchmo’s is a little hard to find, situated in a strip mall just off a secondary street. You walk in, order from the counter, and then find a table. It probably only holds 40 people, so I almost got it to go. But just as I finished ordering, a table opened up, so I stayed to eat. The tattooed young woman working the register was helpful and made the suggestion that I make a 4-rib dinner a half-rack dinner for a few extra dollars, so I did that. I chose the sweet potato fries and beans as sides – the beans had been recommended in one of the reviews I read, and I saw the fries on another diner’s plate, and they looked fabulous.

 

The young man who brought my food out was a cook it appeared, and he was friendly and personable, even though it was busy. They had a large selection of beers, and I heard him helping customers choose their selections with knowledge and confidence.

When I took the first bite of the ribs, I knew I’d found the right place. The meat literally fell off the bones as I began to eat it. Ribs are often tough and you have to rip the meat from a solid bone, but these were unbelievably tender, and even the bones were small and fell apart as I ate. I seriously don’t know if I’ve ever had such good ribs. The sauces, I used a combination of sweet and spicy, were tasty but not overpowering, allowing the flavor of the meat to come through. Unlike Famous Dave’s, which has six different flavors to choose from so you can hide the taste, or lack of taste, of the meat, here the simplicity was perfect.

The sweet potato fries were thin, crispy, and fried to perfection, and if I weren’t concerned with weighing more than I should, I could have eaten another helping. The beans were okay; of the entire meal, they were the least memorable. They were good, but nothing exceptional.

I will return to Satchmo’s before leaving Flagstaff. Maybe after I hike Mt. Humphries I’ll treat myself to another of these heavenly meals. I can use that as incentive to hike the highest hike I’ve attempted so far. But that is a few days away. Until then, I’ll salivate just thinking about those to-die-for ribs.

June 14 – I spent another day doing very little today. I decided to return to Flagstaff and wander around its streets again. I needed to pick up another pair of the socks I found last week called “Darn Tough” socks. They offer really great padding but aren’t bulky, and they wash out well. I will only pack three pairs for the long hike – one to sleep in and two to wear while hiking, alternating wearing them and washing them out every other day, so finding the perfect ones is important. I’ve bought a number of pairs over the past year or so, but nothing was just right. Just like my boots, it’s taken some trial and error. The store where I bought the socks was out of the ones I wanted, so I stopped in another outdoor store in town. (I saw about six outdoor stores in about two square blocks, and that doesn’t even count the new REI in town.)

Talking with the young man working at Babbitt’s, the store I stopped into, I asked if anyone around could clean up my small backpacking stove. When I used it a few nights ago, it was really hard to light, and I need it to work easily while I’m on the JMT. He offered to do it for me if I brought it in after noon, when more workers would be there. I did, and he spent about 45 minutes working on it.

He took it all apart and cleaned it up, explaining what was wrong and how I could keep it functioning better. When I explained that Jesse had used diesel fuel in it at one point, he said that was part of the reason it was so filthy. He recommended to only use the white gas unless it was not available. I will definitely follow his advice.  We visited as he worked on the stove, and he told me he has worked as a guide for some backpacking and river rafting trips. He made some suggestions on hikes for me, and I used his suggestions to solidify my hiking agenda for the next week. I’m not hiking every day – I realize I need to save some energy and mental strength for the month I’ll be hiking almost daily. I plan to intersperse the hikes with days in Flagstaff or at the campground, enjoying the weather, the scenery, reading, and writing.

So tonight, I’m going to work on finalizing my resupply packages that I’ll be mailing Monday, and maybe reorganize my car a bit – it always gets to be such a mess living out of it. I’ll try my stove and make sure it’s working just right. There are real perks to spending consecutive days in one campsite, and I’m taking full advantage of those.

And tomorrow, I’ll hike up a mountain. Again.

Hunkering down in Flagstaff

June 9 – I found a campground last night about 7:30, and I couldn’t be happier with it. I checked a couple I’d heard about near Mormon Lake, but when I pulled in and was looking at the various sites, the camp host came by. I asked her about cell service, because I noticed I didn’t have any. She suggested a campground a little farther up the road called Canyon Vista. She said it was a nice little campground and it did have cell service – the only one in the area she knew of.

            Now before you judge me for wanting cell service when I’m supposed to be in the wilderness, understand that my favorite place to be is on the edge of the grid – I like the wilderness, but I like being able to stay in contact with my kids and friends. I don’t mind being isolated for a night or two, but I was looking for a good basecamp from which to make a number of hikes. And if I’m spending a number of nights in one place, I want to have the ability to connect – partly so I can let my support people know where I’m hiking each day, and partly because I want to be able to connect in the evening. I’ll have plenty of time with no cell service and no Internet when I’m on the John Muir Trail. I don’t have to do it now.

 

            This morning I headed for the little Country Store about a mile from the campground to wash up, brush my teeth, and get coffee. When I got there, there were about five guys sitting out on the porch of the store, and they all visited with me as I headed in. One was the owner, and he told me they didn’t have any restrooms and pointed out a couple of portapotties. He suggested I head the other way on the road, about four miles from the campground, and find a gas station that could help me. I thanked him and said I’d get my coffee anyway. He showed me the coffee pot in the store and wouldn’t let me pay him for it. We visited for a little bit, he told me where I could buy a shower when I asked, and one of the other guys asked me where in Woodbury County I live. It turns out he was from eastern Iowa. I could have shot the shit with them all day, but I wanted to get started on my day’s activities.

            I ran up to the gas station, which turned out to be right on the edge of Flagstaff. I had no idea I was so close to town – the campground feels very remote. At the gas station, not only did they have a nice clean restroom, but also they had Caffeine Free Diet Coke and crushed ice on the fountain. I felt as if I’d struck gold. I did my business and went back to decide on a hike.

 

            When I pulled in, I noticed a little triangular trailer at a nearby site. I went over and introduced myself to Bill, the camper there, and he showed me this little trailer he had made for very little money. It’s perfect for what I want. I took pictures so I could commission Super-Ex Rick to make it for me. Bill hikes all over, and he’d already completed some good ones in the area. I’m amazed at the number of hikes here in these mountains. And I didn’t know this area was so much cooler and had Ponderosa Pines and old-growth forests. This part of Arizona has been one surprise after another.

            Bill showed me a book he’d bought of area hikes, and told me where the camping store was to pick one up. It’s written by a local, so the hikes are described well with commentary on what to expect. He told me about some of the ones he’s hiked and made some suggestions. After running to town and grabbing the book, I set out on my first hike in the area.

            I hiked a combination of two hikes – Sandys Canyon Trail and Fischer Point. The total mileage was about 7.5 miles round-trip. I climbed down into the canyon, walked the length of it, and then hiked up out of it to Fischer Point and back again. It was a beautiful hike. I walked among the tall Ponderosa Pines, growing from between rocks and cooled lava beds. The hike was steep in places, but not unmanageably so, and the scent of the pine trees was a heady perfume.

            I love being in the pines, and it felt good to stretch my legs. My foot held up nicely with no pain. This was a good test with rocky terrain and plenty of inclines and declines to navigate. The hike I’m doing tomorrow will test it even further, along with testing my trail legs as it’s a little longer and has more ups and downs.

Fischer Point

            After the hike and running to town to do my online tasks, I came back to make dinner and settle down for the night. I didn’t have a big chance to relax – Bill came over with a strong recommendation for my hike tomorrow, which I’m taking, and my next-door campers are two men who came over to introduce themselves, visit for a few minutes, and then invited me over to look through their telescope.

            It was amazing. I saw Saturn with her rings, the red planet Mars, and the moon. I have to say, seeing the moon up close with its craters and shadows was one of the most wonderful sites I’ve seen. Saturn was amazing too – it’s crazy how clearly you can see the rings on that tiny image. We visited for a while longer, and I finally was able to say goodnight and return to my campsite. It’s chilly now, and I’m heading to bed. I’m continually amazed at the unexpected gifts I find on my travels.

            June 10 – Today I hiked the longest hike I’ve done since I injured my foot last year. The hike was an up and back called the Kachina Trail. It started at about 9200 feet elevation and went up and down, up and down between that and 8800. It doesn’t sound like a lot of elevation change, but it was so frequent that by the end I felt every foot up and every foot down.

Lunch break

Ferns? In Arizona? Who knew?

            It was well worth the effort, though. The day was beautiful at around 75 to 85 degrees, with a nice breeze when I hit the open spots on the hike. It included some slight bouldering up and down on the rocky parts of the trail, and I hiked through Ponderosa Pines, across open meadows, and through thick groves of Aspen trees. I sat and had lunch once I hit the final grove of Aspens I had been told about. Sitting there, on the wide white trunk of a fallen Aspen, with just a little breeze blowing, was peaceful and lovely. I decided to turn back at that point – I’d hiked about 4 ¼ miles and decided 8 ½ miles was enough for the day.

            I’m a little discouraged that I’m getting so tired on these 7 ½ to 8 ½ mile hikes. Last year I did some 10 milers before I injured my foot and they didn’t bother me at all. The year before I also did a number of 10 – 11 mile hikes. I keep thinking of the 10 miles a day I intend to average on the JMT, and I’m hoping it’s just a matter of getting acclimated to the higher elevation and building my trail legs. I’m so happy that my foot is not causing me problems, and the all-over soreness I always experience in the first few hours after finishing a hike dissipates by the evening. But this effort I feel the last few miles of these longer hikes has me a little anxious. I suppose it’s really just a matter of training and gutting it out when I’m tired. I’ll say one thing, it always feels so good to finish the hike and take those boots off.

            After the gorgeous, if exhausting, hike, I found Flagstaff’s Aquacenter where I can purchase a day pass for $4.75. I intended to use this only for a shower, and I did this first day, but next time I’m taking my swimsuit and going to soak in the hot tub and maybe swim a little. I’m guessing after my next long, difficult hike it will be like a little slice of heaven. The shower alone was wonderful – no time limit and a private area for dressing.  And they even had big mirrors and outlets to primp a little. The shower I found the day before only had 5 minutes for $3 and no outlets, mirror, or sinks to use afterward.  It’s amazing what I find pleasure in when I’m living out of my car and in my tent.

            I decided I needed a dose of civilized activity, so I went to see the film “Chef” at the local theater. It was a sweet, feel-good film, and I enjoyed it. I might even try to catch another one this week while I’m based here in Flagstaff. I am so worn out by the end of the day, I’m finding I have no trouble going to sleep well before my usual midnight at home.

A couple panorama views of the hike. I love this camera phone

            June 11 – I awoke this morning after the first night of sleeping the entire night through with no excursions to pee and no tossing and turning. My new sleeping bag is amazing – I can zip into it fully and I don’t feel confined. It’s warm and comfy, and I’m glad I spent the money on it. I think I slept so well because I took ibuprofen before going to sleep – I think I’ll do that regularly. My muscle aches don’t wake me up that way. Getting older really stinks in a lot of ways.

            After two long, strenuous hikes, I decided today I would do something shorter and less demanding, giving my legs some time to recover. I drove down to Sedona for the Bell Rock hike I read about in my hiking book. The trip down there was longer than it would have normally been, and not as pretty. The Sedona Fire has just been put out and the main road between Flagstaff and Sedona, which includes amazing switchbacks and jaw-dropping scenery, is still closed. It’s still a nice drive on the interstate, and it is always interesting to see how the landscape changes so much in such a short distance. The pines and tall trees of Flagstaff, at 7000 feet, give way to the scrub, cactus, and mesquite of the 4000 – 5000 feet of Sedona. And of course, Sedona is known for its red rocks. It was around two of the most well-known formations that I was headed.

The Big Tit

            I knew the hike would be busy because of the area’s popularity. I was really pleased to see that I was wrong. I encountered a few people in the first bit of the hike, but once I’d moved beyond the most developed part, I only saw one group of hikers and one of mountain bikers. One of the cyclists asked the route I was taking. I told him the Courthouse Loop, and he suggested I look for the “Big Tit” or “Mother Ship,” a solitary, rounded formation just off the trail. Climbing up to the top of that, he said, would give me a great view and would be worth doing. I love how many wonderful tips I get from random suggestions by strangers. I’ve come to count on those to guide me in so many ways.

            The hike around the back of two formations – Bell Rock and Courthouse Rock – is through a wilderness area, so it’s less developed and a little rougher – just like I enjoy. It was hot, but the breeze was stiff and the scrubby trees offered frequent shade. I did find the tit, and I did climb it. I didn’t go all the way to the top – I didn’t feel comfortable making the last part of the climb without a partner. But getting up part way I was able to find a place to sit, and I took in the panorama. The wind was blowing hard, and I felt free and wild, as if I were alone in the world.

            This back half of the hike reminded me even more why I love hiking in the red desert. I don’t know if Sedona really is home of these spiritual vortexes and if that is what I was feeling, but it isn’t an unfamiliar, this sensing of my place in the universe. I know when I’m out there, beyond a doubt, that I am part of it all, not separate from it. The realization, as I walk along, taking it all in, is “I am that. And that. And that.” These wild rocks and desert terrain erase the illusion of separateness in which we live our lives every day. Come out here. Feel it. I dare you.

            
             I’m sitting writing this in a Laundromat back in Flagstaff, waiting for my clothes to dry. The doors are standing wide open, allowing a nice breeze. I feel at peace and contented. Tomorrow I’ll tackle another tough hike, but tonight, I’m going to relax and maybe explore a little of historic Flagstaff. I’m enjoying having a base camp for a week or so. I’m still doing something new every day, seeing a new vista and trying a new challenge, but its fun to get to know a place a little bit.

The back side of the hike

           

Finding Arizona

Best breakfast ever

June 6 – This was more a travel day than anything, and I began it by leaving Kanab and heading south. That is, I left after having my favorite breakfast at my favorite restaurant in Kanab - Enchiladas Huervos at Nedra's Too.  I knew I wanted to be close to Arcosanti, my destination for Saturday morning, so I decided I’d find a campground around Flagstaff, which is just an hour or so north of there.

Vermillion Cliffs

            I took the scenic route, which runs just north of the Grand Canyon, then swings over past the Vermillion cliffs. It’s a beautiful drive, and I was in no hurry. This is Navajo Reservation land, and as most reservation land is, was hot and dry – the government was always especially adept at choosing the most inhospitable land possible for our continent’s indigenous people. (Watch the Ken Burns’ documentary called “The West” for a look at how the Native Americans were treated.)

More Vermillion Cliffs

            There were a lot of roadside businesses that had closed as various highways replaced the road as a main thoroughfare. One of these businesses, in the small town of Gray Mountain, caught my eye as some shirtless Native American boys were cavorting around in front of it. As I looked over, I saw it was advertising a car wash. Having had children who washed cars as fundraisers and having a car that was filthy with red dust from my days in the canyon lands of Utah, I turned around and went back.

Getting a much-needed bath

            It turns out the fundraiser was for the boys’ basketball team, and the moms were the ones doing the washing. They did a great job and I gave them a little more than the $5 they asked for the wash, and visited with them a bit. I know how expensive it gets taking your kids to ball games all the time, and I was glad I could contribute a little. Besides, my car looked a whole lot better when I pulled back on to the highway.

            At little farther down the road, I noticed a sign for Wupatki National Monument and decided I might as well check it out. It is a small National Monument and is adjacent to its sister monument, Sunset Crater Volcano NM.  Wupatki consists of a number of ruins, inhabited approximately 800 years ago by the ancestors of the Pueblo Indians. They were so interesting – the houses were intricate with many rooms, and I was amazed how much cooler it was within the rock and mud walls. The main ruin, a large structure on top of a hill, had a large outside gathering space, a ball court, and it was located next to a blow hole – an air vent from deep underground where air either escapes or is drawn in. Walking through these ruins made me think of the idea of sacred ground.

            I’ve written about the concept of sacred ground before, and in that piece I talked about how I find it’s all sacred at its core. That said, I appreciate and honor those who have sacred spaces of their own, whether it’s an ancestral home, a cathedral, or a homeland. But really, I can’t believe any ground is more or less sacred than any other. It is all a part of us – it is all one with us. I really believe we need to treat ALL ground, all the earth, as sacred. Respect for others necessitates that we must honor the places that have been designated as sacred by this group or that, and we must honor the places that have not. In honoring, we honor and nurture ourselves.

            After exploring this monument, I drove on to Flagstaff. I had business at REI to replace my watch, and I wanted to use the WiFi at a McDonalds. I sat quite a while at McDonalds waiting for some things to back up, and interacted briefly with some of the many homeless people there. I was happy to see that McDonalds didn’t run them off – clearly they needed a place to sit and rest. Some were eating, some asked people for money (which I couldn’t help but give) and one woman, as I sat in my car just before leaving, approached me and asked if I had an extra blanket. I didn’t, but after a little thought, I realized I brought three sweatshirts with me and I could certainly spare one of those. I felt better, later that night when I put on my sweatshirt and sweatpants, knowing she would be warmer too.

            I found a county campground just on the south end of Flagstaff, near the fairgrounds. After finding a spot, I noticed how many people brought dogs with them there. Then I realized there was a dog show the next day. I visited briefly with a slightly unfriendly woman walking her slightly unfriendly Dalmatian and a very friendly man walking a very friendly bloodhound. I kind of fell in love with that dog. A big, sweet dog, he allowed me to rub and pull on his loose skin. The man, his handler, had me pretend to be a judge as the dog has only been showing a short while. He is a working search and rescue dog and has found more than 50 people in his career. The man also showed me his four Tibetan Terriers or something like that, and they were little happy mops. I wished I didn’t have to be at Arcosanti so early – it would have been fun to watch some of the show.

This was my first night camping in Arizona except right on Lake Powell, and I was a little disappointed that they are under fire restrictions right now. There has been a huge fire, not far from Flagstaff  and near Sedona, that just now, after a few weeks, is 100 percent under control. It is all very dry here, and the fire danger signs all register “Extreme.” Understandably, I doubt I’ll have a fire as long as I’m in this state. But I still was able to sit near my tent and write a little, enjoying the cooler air and the clear skies.

 

June 7 and 8 – I spent the weekend at Arcosanti, an “urban laboratory” created by architect Paolo Soleri, who was intent on correcting urban sprawl. It is an experimental project, and it is constantly under construction with volunteers and interns living and working there. The idea is to combine architecture with ecology, making sustainable, ecological living spaces. It is in the desert, approachable on a rough gravel road and surrounded by rocks and hills, and it is beautiful. The temperatures reach 100 degrees during the day already, and there is no air conditioning, but the structure of the buildings and the materials allow for natural cooling.

I had VIP tickets, so attended this intimate concert

Free chapstick from these girls

This weekend was the annual Juneteenth Jazz Splash Jazz Festival, celebrating music and freedom. I purchased a special ticket that included a night’s stay at the facility, and listened to jazz all weekend. It was a relaxing and enjoyable few days, and I visited with some musicians about their music and their lives. I ate some traditional Ethiopian food and some down-home barbeque. I made some friends and exchanged numbers, and I bought a few trinkets for some friends at home.

Charles McPhereson

One of the views from Arcosanti

It was a lovely weekend, and it was great to sleep in a bed and have a bathroom right in my room, but I was quite glad to leave and head back to a campground and the wilderness. I did a lot of walking and climbing stairs at Arcosanti – it’s multi-leveled and you can’t go anywhere without climbing or descending stairs, and my room was about a quarter mile walk down a hill, so I got some activity in. But I’m ready for some more hiking and some solitude, and, of course, I’m getting it.